UNRAVEL. Knitwear in fashion
(in Belgium)

The current show on display at MoMu (Fashion Museum Province of Antwerp) focuses on fashion in knitwear during the last century. Acclaimed designers from all over the world - Elsa Schiaparelli, Gabrielle Chanel, Barbara Hulanicki (Biba)- are only a few of the groundbreaking names in knitwear fashion, represented here.

The show has been divided into eleven spaces, covering everything knitted from lingerie to innovative sculptural designs by emerging and already established talent. In some rooms, catwalk shows on dvd by high fashion designer such as Sonia Rykiel and Yoshji Yamamoto highlight the vivid garments.

My first encounter, when entering the wooden hallway is with a massive gradient knitwork by Rotterdam - based designer Bauke Knottnerus.This incorporates subtly coloured knitted ‘tubes’ where people can sit or lie. These have been created as a tribute.

The exhibition opens with a sub section dedicated to Belgium designers in knitwear fashion, paying homage to Ann Salens. The following rooms unravel how knitted garments emerged over time from delicate feminine wear, creating an important link for women between sport and fashion.

For anyone passionate about fashion this is the perfect cultural visit over the weekend. Even the merchandising side is impressive, contrasting knitwear's soft edges with white angular table settings.

On Sunday the space was surprisingly empty; could only hear the echo of teenagers' giggles. For the rest of the time I wandered around feeling privileged to enjoy an exhibition on my own in a superb museum like MoMu. After living many years in London where peace isn't easy to access, this visit was a treat.

Downstairs by the reception is a small gallery space, currently dedicated to Niels Peeraer, a young and aspiring talent who recently won a MoMu award. His designs are fresh and eye catching. The gentle pink garments balance the edgy cuffs and buckles, and Lolita was juxtaposed with Alice In Wonderland. The show fizzes with creativity and inspiration. He is giving us a sweet, alternative story.

www.momu.be

http://www.antwerp-fashion.be/SHOW2011/4/niels_peeraer/

Favourite clothing

I bought my favourite fashion item, a white wool tuxedo in spring 2009. It was in a vintage shop in Aldgate, East London. The first inspiration came from my idol, photographer Helmut Newton’s shoots.  At the time I was a photography student at LCC (London College of Communication) searching for clothes for a street fashion themed photo shoot. I found out that strong shoulders were very much on trend in 2009. Even fashion magazine Vogue UK noted that in fall/winter season 2009 ‘it’s all about the shoulder’.

I love this white wool tuxedo so much that I have not had the courage to wear it anywhere yet. However, one day I do see myself wearing it. It may not be always a trend but it is a classical statement piece in my wardrobe. As a ‘tomboy’ I love wearing Converse trainers and jeans on daily basis. This is also one of the reasons why I was looking for a classical piece to enhance my sense of style and share it in my photo shoot. The tuxedo seemed like a missing piece in a puzzle in my photography shoot. Besides I very much liked how it enhanced the character’s feminine side and made the overall shoot look powerful and sexy.

The straight cut, strong shoulders, fine tailoring by Sag Harbor appealed to me for its authenticity in 70s vintage fashion.. Closer research revealed that it has a strong resemblance with Yves Saint Laurent’s tuxedo suit created in 1966. At the time I was very much interested in classical vintage clothing and doing styling for my own photography shoots. I particularly explored various fashion magazines, high street shops, vintage boutiques and weekend markets for my shoots as well as wardrobe. The idea came from looking year 2008 fashion magazines, like Vogue UK and Elle’s seasonal collections. Suits, military coats, the tuxedo jacket all came into fashion in fall/winter 2008 as seen on catwalks.

Further research into fashion history included some of the fashion trends that have been categorized as classical pieces, such as trench coats, white shirts, stilettos and  tuxedos. Previously fierce shoulders were last seen in recession times at 1940s and 1980s. These shoulders made a comeback in fall/winter 2009 fashion shows. I was fascinated to find out that classic black tuxedo first designed by Yves Saint Laurent was rated as an investment buy in the September issue 2010 Harper’s Bazaar UK. According to Harper’s Bazaar editor Lucy Yeomans in fall/winter collection 2010/11, “the emphasis was on simple cuts, quality fabrics and great investment pieces.” This year’s spring/summer 2011 extended tuxedo trend to a new level, simple masculine cut like seen in Stella McCartney’s collection, including Paul Smith’s more modern tailoring.

In history, tuxedo first emerged at late 1800s worn on informal dinner parties. At that time men wore it first but it wasn’t long when women adapted the cut. Military jackets were the first influence for designers in forming a tuxedo for women.  In Vogue UK’s supplement Glamour tuxedo has been illustrated finely: “Dreamt up in 1966 by Yves Saint Laurent, the tuxedo or Le Smoking is perhaps the most empowering item of clothing ever created for women. With its long, lean silhouette and androgynous style, it didn’t take long for what was originally seen as a radical statement to become a design classic, embraced by the most glamorous women and starring in some of the most iconic fashion photographs-most notably those by Helmut Newton. ” Since then, the rest is history. Women attending chic cocktail parties to prestigious charity events wear tuxedos as a fashion statement. It is also a popular wear at casual events when balanced with a vivid pair of leggings or a sexy fitted dress. While for formal and sophisticated look women in business consider more appropriate look pairing the tuxedo with a pencil skirt or a pair of fitted trousers over a loose blouse. Alternative mix seen with the tuxedo is a pair of jeans and a shirt on top on a casual day or night out.

It is my favourite because if fits well, it is warm, comfortable and versatile. At occasions the tuxedo looks stylish with a pair of heels as well converse trainers. It may not be always in trend but I am happy to have a classic statement piece in a wardrobe. I would imagine wearing it at a dinner party or for edgy club night out. Now I only need to convince myself wear it.